11th
New Zealand Symposium of Gastronomy
Saturday
and Sunday 25 & 26 November 2017
and Persian Recipe Workshop Friday 24 November
by Max Dingle
The
theme for the 11th Symposium was:
Everyday
Food
and food-related activities are important, yet often
taken-for-granted parts of our everyday lives. The biological
imperative that makes eating a necessity usually makes us look at it
as a mundane practice. Cooking, too, especially in its 'domestic'
context, may seem insignificant and uninteresting.
Shopping
for food, chopping and washing ingredients, and cleaning up after a
meal rarely seem poetic or even important. However, the very
everydayness of these activities can evolve into meaningful cultural
and social symbols, depicting individuals' or societies' relationship
with different issues ranging from nutrition, health and hygiene to
gender norms, national identity and memory.
By
looking at the everydayness of food-related activities, we come to
understand how societies feed themselves, and therefore, we get a
better understanding of their cultures, their past, present, and
future. By observing and studying everyday food-related practices,
habits, and values that are constantly being passed in ordinary
kitchens from one generation to the next, we can open a window to
also understanding non-everyday foodways such as those practiced in
sacred rituals, mourning, and celebrations.
The
1911 edition of Everyday Cooking, was the inspiration for the theme and
its cover the "poster girl"
There
were 25 papers given over the two days; these
will be published in the Aristrologist journal at some stage over the
Highlights
included
Tracy
Berno, of Canadian origin, explored a little-known, everyday treat
from Canada, the Butter Tart, from historical, cultural and personal
perspectives. As well as bringing samples of her personal recipe for
tasting.
Donna
Lee Brien used Margaret Dunn's popular, everyday cookbook, Mother's
Best Recipes (1974), to explore Dunn's life and career and provided
information about taste, cookery and the publication of cookbooks in
Australia during the period.
Graham
Ellender explored Gastronomy and the association between the brain
and the mouth, Christine Hall
explained
the social elements of dining as providers of a reflective effect on
our enjoyment of the meal, with the notion that meals have created
the core of human social interaction, the main daily activity that
makes humans socialize.
Saman
Hassibi covered a brief history of select parts of Iranian food
history and food culture, and about the difficulties that are faced
when trying to recreate historic recipes, such as those prepared for
Saturday's lunch at the Symposium.
Kelila
Jaffe focused on the Iron-Age Irish royal archaeological site of Dún
Ailinne and the societies that relied on cattle, and the role cattle
and cattle consumption played. While from left field, in “What Did
You Eat Yesterday?”: Reading Home-Cooked Food in Yoshinaga Fumi 's
Boys Love Manga – Alex Tran investigated the iconic Manga which
focuses on a household of Gay men but is written for women and argued
that the power of food in gastronomy study is beyond the material
realm where reading, or perhaps even imagining, is as important as
eating.
Allison
Reynolds' paper came from her research exploring the origin and
evolution along with the myths and legends surrounding the Anzac
biscuit. The presentation aimed to show that the Anzac biscuit
continues to unite and represent the ANZAC spirit and in the process,
has given us an unbroken Australian and New Zealand food tradition
which has a powerful connection to both countries' national identity.
Amir
Sayadabdi also explored identity through his paper on the everyday
food habits of the Gilaks, an ethnic group residing mainly along the
south west coast of the Caspian Sea in the province of Gilan in
Northern Iran, where particular climate conditions have created
distinct eating habits and culinary preparation which has, in turn,
resulted in the formation of a distinct identity.
Then
back into the home and the everyday and in “Mumfood”, Alison
Vincent considered the daily routine of meal making and how it might
be captured in words, recording meals, recipes and advice that may
one day be passed on and maybe useful to the next generation.
Finally
Michael Symons, in part, reflected on Post-Ideological Foodism and
in part stood in for Duncan Galletly, publisher of Aristologist
Journal who was ill and unable to attend this Symposium.
The
12th New Zealand Symposium of Gastronomy will be held in Napier on
Saturday and Sunday 24 and 25 November 2018. Details will be
available on: http://www.aristologist.com/
11th
New Zealand Symposium of Gastronomy Workshop
Friday
24 November 2017 ARA Institute Christchurch
Max
Dingle
Ara
Institute of Canterbury, was the venue for both the Symposium as well
as a Persian recipe workshop
The
Institute is government-funded and provides tertiary-level education
throughout the Canterbury and Waitaki region. Ara was created in 2016
when education providers CPIT and Aoraki Polytechnic merged, bringing
together two well-established organisations and over 200 years of
collective experience and success.
Ara
is the Māori word for path or journey. It represents the learning
process, the many pathways to success, and the routes and rivers that
criss-cross the Canterbury Plains from the mountains to the sea.
Underpinning
the logo is the phrase 'Ara rau, taumata rau' which translates 'many
pathways, many opportunities'.
The
Food and Hospitality facilities are purpose-built for training
purposes and include five kitchens one of which was made available to
the workshop.
The
two main organisers of the Symposium were Saman Hassibi and Amir
Sayadabdi both of whom are from Iran and are in Christchurch on study
visas. Saman
(Sam
as everyone calls her)
translated the very early Persian recipes, from 700 AD through to
1300 AD, and was the main workshop leader.
There
were about ten in the workshop, including Sam, Amir and a Head Chef
from the Institute. The kitchen was fully kitted out including a
whole room full of pots, dishes, pans, whisks and spoons. There were
mobile trolleys of knives, measuring spoons and every essential tool
of the cooking trade. Want more cinnamon, salt or spice, it was
there; in kilo quantities. In other words a dream kitchen.
Participants
spent a good portion of the day doing lots of prep, peeling, salting,
drying and frying eggplants, chopping onions, carrots, nuts, making &
rolling pastry, making small meat balls - roll until they develop a
natural stickness; no binder is added to the ground meat & onion.
Preparing carrot halva, rolling into balls and decorating with black
and white sesame seeds or poppy seeds.
Lunch
was a great pasta and bean vegetable soup with a sour cheese /
yoghurt sauce, followed by pistachio ice cream that Sam had and made
for us, the evening before.
The
finish for the day, washing dishes and cleaning the kitchen, all of
which is, of course, an essential part and parcel of cooking, as well
as a pleasure, laughing with friends, splashing around in hot water
and wondering how we used so many pots, dishes and pans.
The
final meal was served for lunch to the fourty or so attendees of the
11th Symposium of Gastronomy.
Early Persian Recipes
as translated for the Symposium Workshop held in Christchurch NZ
Honey
& Vinegar Lamb Stew (Sekbā)
Lamb
shoulder, deboned
|
600
gr, cut into 2 cm cubes
|
Onions
|
3
small, diced
|
Eggplant*
|
2
medium
|
Lean
lamb mince (optional)
|
300
gr
|
Onion
(optional)
|
1
small, grated
|
Garlic
(optional)
|
1
small glove, minced
|
Fresh
coriander – or bay leaves (1-2)
|
1
small bunch
|
Cinnamon
|
1
teaspoon
|
Wine
vinegar
|
½
cup
|
Honey
or date molasses
|
1
tablespoon or to taste
|
Almond
halves or flakes
|
½
cup
|
Dried
coriander
|
2
teaspoon
|
Dried
figs
|
¼
cup
|
Sultanas
|
¼
cup
|
Saffron,
ground
|
1
teaspoon
|
Rosewater
|
2
tablespoon
|
Butter
or sesame oil
|
¼
cup
|
Vegetable
oil
|
¼
cup
|
Kashk
** or yoghurt
Salt
& Pepper
|
1
cup or 1/2 cup yoghurt
To
taste
|
*
Eggplants can be replaced with carrots.
**
Kashk available at Middle Eastern stores. Make
by storing yoghurt for 1 or 2 days at room temperature (or until it
tastes sour). Place
it in a blender with 1/2 cup water and 1 tablespoon salt. Mix until
smooth. Pour into a pot, bring to a boil and simmer the yogurt (with
the top off the pot) until thick, (this may take up to 4 hours).
Drain through 2 layers of cheesecloth or 1 layer of butter muslin
until all the liquid has come out (at least 1/2 hour).
Preparation:
1.
Peel the eggplants, cut their ends, cut them in half, then, cut to 10
cm long wedges. Prick the wedges with fork and lightly sprinkle some
salt on them and place them in a colander or on a tea towel for 15-30
minutes. After that, dry the beads of water on them, turn them over
and salt the other side, and let them remain for another 15-30
minutes. Then dry them up with paper towel.
2.
Heat the vegetable oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Once the
oil is hot, arrange the eggplants in a single layer, cover the
skillet, and fry the eggplants for about 3-4 minutes, or until golden
brown on one side. Flip over the eggplants, cover again and fry the
other side for another 3-4 minutes, or until the eggplants can easily
be poked with a fork. Don’t leave the eggplants unattended as they
can easily be ruined. Set them aside.
3.
In a bowl, mix the minced meat with the grated onion, minced garlic,
and some salt and pepper and make small meatballs (1-2 cm diameter).
4.
Dissolve the saffron in a little boiling water and let it brew for a
few minutes.
Cooking:
1.
In another skillet (with lid) or pot, heat a little vegetable oil and
fry the onion until it is translucent and its edges begin to change
colour. Then add the garlic and fry them until golden brown.
Cook
cubed lamb or fry it in the onion and garlic, then cook with a little
water until it’s very tender (step 1). Mash or shred the cooked
meat before going on to step 2. You don’t need to add as much water
as there would be enough broth to be used for cooking the eggplants.
2.
Add dried figs, sultanas, wine vinegar, honey or date molasses, dried
coriander, cinnamon, and Saffron to the fried onions and stir for
10-15 seconds, place the fried eggplants on them, add boiling water
or broth from cooking lamb, put the lid on, and let the eggplants
cook on medium-low heat until they become very tender (ca. 15-20
minutes). If the eggplants are not quite tender just yet, and the
water has almost dried up, add a little bit of water and let them
cook thoroughly.
3.
Set the pot aside, and mash any big pieces of eggplant with a fork or
potato masher. If it’s not easy to mash them up, they are still
undone! Add half the amount of kashk
and
mix well. Place the pot back on the hob, and stir for 1-2 minutes
until it’s thoroughly heated*, add Rosewater.
*If
you’d like, you can add a couple tablespoons of boiling water and
let the eggplants and kashk simmer together for 5 minutes. Do not do
this if you’re using yogurt!
4.
Serve the mash in the dish, garnish with more kashk,
fried mint, fried onions and garlic, fried small meat balls, almond
flakes, chopped walnut and fresh coriander. Serve with bread and side
of assorted herbs.
For
a vegetarian version:
Drain and rinse a can of lentils or white beans (or better yet, cook
some yourself!), add to the onions, then mash them before adding the
eggplants, and continue.
Roast
Lamb and Mint Rolls (Bazmāvard)
For
the lamb
|
Leg
of lamb, butterflied
|
1
|
Yogurt
|
2
cups
|
Minced
garlic
|
1
tablespoon
|
Cumin,
ground
|
1
teaspoon
|
Cinnamon
barks
|
1-2
pieces
|
Salt
& Pepper
|
To
taste
|
Oil
|
2-3
tablespoons
|
Mint
stems
|
Of
1-2 bunch
|
For
the rolls
|
Fresh
mint leaves
|
1
cup
|
Fresh
coriander, chopped
|
½
cup
|
Cider
vinegar or lemon juice
|
¼
cup or more to taste
|
Chopped
walnuts
|
½
cup
|
Feta,
crumbled
|
½
cup
|
Rosewater
|
1-2
tablespoon
|
Lavash
or
any other soft thin flatbread
|
As
many as is needed
|
1.
In a bowl, mix the yogurt, minced garlic, cumin, salt and pepper, and
some oil together. Prick a few holes in the lamb or make a few
shallow cuts on it and rub the yogurt mixture on the lamb, cover it,
and let it be for a few hours or overnight until it’s marinated.
2.
After a few hours, place the lamb in a proper dish with the mint
stems scattered over it and the cinnamon barks, and roast.
3.
Let the meat cool down and shred it in a bowl. Add the mint leaves,
chopped coriander, walnuts, and a little vinegar to soften the
mixture. If the vinegar is too sharp, replace some of it with water.
If you’d like, you can add a little rosewater, too.
4.
Add the crumbled feta, mix, and adjust the salt and pepper.
5.
Place the bread on the working surface, add some of the meat filling,
roll up, and cut to 3 cm long pieces (wheels). Place them on the
serving tray and sprinkle a little rosewater on top, garnish with
mint leaves.
Roasted
Chicken and Tarragon Rolls (Bazmāvard)
For
the chicken
|
Chicken
breast
|
2-3
|
Yogurt
|
1
cups
|
Minced
garlic
|
½
tablespoon
|
Lemon
zest
|
1
teaspoon
|
Oil
or melted butter
|
2-3
tablespoons
|
Salt
& Pepper
|
To
taste
|
For
the rolls
|
Fresh
basil leaves, chopped
|
¼
cup
|
Fresh
tarragon, chopped
|
¼
cup
|
Lemon
juice and zest
|
1
lemon
|
Cream
cheese
|
½
cup
|
Cream,
sour cream or yogurt
|
¼
cup
|
Lavash
or
any other soft thin flatbread
|
As
many as is needed
|
1.
Slice the breast lengthwise and marinate it with the yogurt, garlic,
lemon juice, oil, and salt and pepper for a few hours, then sauté or
grill.
2.
Stir the cream and cream cheese together until it is softened.
3.
Chop the chicken and add it to the cream cheese mixture, mix in the
herbs, the zest, and lemon juice, salt, and pepper to taste.
4.
Place the bread on the working surface, add some of the filling, roll
up, and cut to long 3 cm pieces (wheels).
Assorted
herb side-salad (Sabzi
khordan)
Basil
|
2
bunches
|
Parsley
|
1
bunch
|
Coriander
|
1
bunch
|
Watercress
|
1
bunch
|
Chives
|
1
bunch
|
Spring
onion
|
1
bunch
|
Tarragon
|
1
bunch
|
Radish
|
1
bunch
|
Mint
|
1
bunch
|
1.
Fill up a big bowl with cold water
2.
Destem basils, parley, coriander, watercress, tarragon, and mint. Add
the leaves to the bowl of water.
3.
Cut both ends of radish. Chop off the ends of spring onions and cut
them to 5 cm long pieces. Throw them in the bowl of cold water, move
them around with hands so they are thoroughly cleaned.
4.
Remove the herbs from the bowl to a colander and set aside for a
while, then, place them on paper towel to absorb the extra moisture.
Cut the larger radishes to smaller circles. Serve the herbs in a
plate, bowl, or basket alongside the main dish or eat them with
bread, feta cheese, and walnuts.
The
number of herbs, amount of each, and types of herbs can vary based on
your personal taste. You can also include fresh dill, fennel leaves,
purslane, savoury, or any other herb you enjoy!
Sam’s
favourite mix is a bunch of coriander, a bunch of tarragon, two
bunches of basil, half a bunch of chives, and as many tiny red
radishes as one can buy.
Saffron
rice pudding (Sholezard)
Rice
(short or medium grain, or grits)
|
1
cup
|
Water
|
2
cups + enough for soaking
|
Salt
|
A
pinch
|
Sugar
|
1.5-2
cups
|
Saffron,
ground
|
To
taste (ca. 1 gr should suffice)
|
Cardamom
pods (cracked)
|
2-3
|
Salt
|
A
pinch
|
Butter
|
100
gr
|
Rosewater
|
¼
cup
|
Silvered
almond (optional)
|
¼
cup
|
Garnish
|
Cinnamon
powder
|
To
taste
|
Almond
(silvered, flakes)
|
Optional
|
Pistachio
|
Optional
|
Preparation:
1.
Wash the rice well and soak it in lukewarm water for a few hours or
overnight.
2.
Dissolve the saffron in a little boiling water and let it brew for a
few minutes.
Cooking:
1.
Drain the soaked rice, discard all its water, pour the rice in a pot,
add the 2 cups of water and the cracked cardamom pods and place on
medium heat and bring to boil. Then reduce the heat and simmer the
rice until the grains lose their shape and become quite soft. Stir
occasionally.
2.
Once the rice reaches porridge’s consistency and the grains are
thoroughly soft, add the sugar, stir, and make sure the sugar is
dissolved. If the pudding is too thick, add a little boiling water
and simmer for 5 more minutes.
3.
Add the butter, brewed saffron, and stir. Obviously the more saffron
you add, the richer the colour of the pudding will be.
4.
Reduce the heat to very low, add the rosewater and silvered almond,
stir well, put the lid on, and let it be for about 3 minutes. Then,
check and stir, close the lid and let it simmer for 3 more minutes.
Repeat the process a few times until it reaches the rice pudding
consistency.
5.
Set the pot aside; remove the cardamom pods, serve the porridge in
dishes, garnish with powdered cinnamon and other nuts, and serve
cold.
Carrot
Halvā
makes
3 cups
Carrots
|
500
gr
|
Rice
flour
|
1
cup
|
Water
|
1
cup
|
Sugar
|
1
cup
|
Butter
|
100
gr
|
Saffron
|
To
taste (3 tablespoons, brewed)
|
Cinnamon
barks
|
2-3
pieces
|
Rosewater
|
¼
cup
|
Preparation:
1.
Peel and chop the carrots, add a little water and the cinnamon stick,
and cook until they are very tender. Then take the cinnamon out,
strain the excess water, and puree the carrots. Set aside.
2.
Dissolve the saffron in a little boiling water and let it brew for a
few minutes.
3.
In a pot, mix the sugar with a little boiling water (around ¼ cup)
and heat until it is dissolved, add the rosewater, and mix, and turn
off the heat. Set aside.
Cooking:
1.
Pour the flour in wide saucepan, place on medium heat, and fry
(without any oil) stirring for 10-15 minutes until you can sense the
aroma of cooked rice flour.
2.
Add the butter to the flour and stir for a few minute until its
colour gets a slight brownish hue. Then, add the puree, stir well
until they are all mixed.
3.
Add the liquid saffron and sugar mixture, and stir constantly. Keep
stirring until all the liquid is dried up and the halva
is
starting to come away from the sides of the pan, stir for a few
minutes until it separates from the sides and comes to the centre of
the pan.
4.
Remove from heat, shake the pan a few times ‘hitting’ the halva
to the sides of the pan (be merciless!) until the halva becomes a
little sparkly. Be very careful not to burn yourself!
5.
Serve the halva in the plates or let it cool down, then shape, and
garnish for example with white sesame seeds, black sesame seeds,
poppy seeds or chopped pistachios.
Walnut,
almond and Pistachio Turnover (Qottāb)
Makes
14-16 pastries
For
the dough :
|
Egg
yolk
|
2
|
Butter
(melted, cooled)
|
100
gr (1/3 cup)
|
Yogurt
|
100
gr (1/3 cup)
|
Flour
|
1
cup + 2 tablespoons
|
Baking
powder
|
¾
teaspoon
|
Baking
soda
|
¼
teaspoon
|
Salt
|
A
pinch
|
Vanilla
essence or cardamom powder
|
¼
teaspoon
|
For
the filling :
|
Ground
almond
|
½
cup
|
Ground
pistachio
|
½
cup
|
Cardamom,
ground
|
1
teaspoon
|
Rosewater
|
½
cup or a little more
|
Icing
sugar
|
1
cup
|
Or
|
Ground
walnut
|
1
cup
|
Cinnamon,
ground
|
¾
teaspoon
|
Clove,
ground
|
¼
teaspoon
|
Rosewater
|
½
cup or a little more
|
Icing
sugar
|
1
cup
|
The
dough:
1.
In a large bowl, mix together egg yolks, yogurt, melted butter, and
cardamom powder.
2.
Sift flour (1cup), baking powder, baking soda, and salt in another
bowl.
3.
Stir the dry ingredients in the wet ones gradually until well
combined. Then, knead the dough for a few minutes until it forms
loose dough and is a bit sticky. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of
flour if the dough was too sticky.
4.
Cover the dough in plastic wrap and let it rest for about 1 hour in a
cool place (not in the fridge).
The
filling:
1.
In another bowl, mix the ground nuts with the sugar and spices, add
rosewater gradually until it forms a dough.
1a.
Preheat the oven to 160 degree Celsius.
2.
Roll out the dough on a lightly flour surface very thin (2 mm) and
with a medium round cookie cutter, cut out circles.
3.
Place 1-2 teaspoons of the filling inside each of the circles, , fold
over, shape to half circles, press the two edges together, then from
one side, using your thumb and finger pleat up the edge (press and
fold over, repeat).
4.
Line a baking tray with parchment paper and place the turnovers in
that, bake for 10-15 minutes until the bottom of the pastries become
lightly browned. Sprinkle with more icing sugar and serve.
Almond
and Coconut Lozenge (Loziné)
Sugar
|
½
cup
|
Water
|
¼
cup
|
Rosewater
|
2
tablespoon
|
Powdered
almond
|
1
cup
|
Cardamom
|
1
teaspoon
|
Toasted
almond flakes
|
¼
cup, Optional
|
Powdered
coconut
|
1
cup
|
Coconut
oil
|
1
tablespoon
|
Vanilla
|
1
teaspoon
|
Toasted
pistachio, chopped
|
¼
cup, Optional
|
1.
In a medium saucepan, heat the water and sugar on low heat for 10-20
minutes until the liquid becomes rather thick.
2.
Meanwhile line a suitable (square shaped) 15 cm dish with cellophane
film.
3.
Add the rose water to the sugar mixture, boil for another 2-3
minutes, then remove from the heat.
4.
Pour the syrup in a suitable bowl, add the cardamom (or vanilla), and
whisk it with electric mixer until the syrup becomes white.
5.
Add the almond (or coconut) powder to the whisked syrup and mix with
a spoon. If the mixture is too sticky add more of the powder.
6.
Move the mixture to the lined dish, press it with hands or back of
the spoon until it is firm, top it with the toasted almond flakes (or
pistachios) and press them a little, and cover with cellophane.
7.
Place the dish in fridge for an hour, then, take out, remove from the
dish, and cut to lozenge shapes.